Let's see if we can access that this way. So, now I'm going to start taking away the shard fender well skirt internal wall. I've taken the tires off so that I can lower this so I can work on it a lot easier, but you do need to take the passenger side front tire off at minimal so that you can access inside the fender well here. Make sure that it's not any chance of touching that negative cable post on the battery. I would strongly recommend whenever doing timing belts you disconnect the negative because you don't want anything, when you're doing internal engine, any accidents to happen. Now, the next step I'm going to do is take off the negative battery cable. I'll turn that and you can lift up on it, and pull it right out.
A flat head screwdriver and there's two locations of little plastic tabs right here in the front. While the coolant is draining I'm going to take advantage of that. Gives air to it so, now it'll just flow right out. I'm going to take the radiator cap off because it's going to allow the rest of the coolant to just flow straight out without any vacuum back pressure. Now, I've lowered the vehicle and I have the catch basin directly below the train plug. You can put your hands up-one hand up through that little window and turn the pit cock until the coolant comes out. Now, I've got a catch pan to catch my coolant. So, they give you these little tabs so, I can go like this and let it hang down if I wanted to. So, to remove the access panel so I can get to the pit cock I'm going to take a small screwdriver, pull down on these tabs. So, it should hopefully, with any good luck, drain straight out and not hit the shield. In this little cutout hole is where the pit cock is. So, to drain the coolant, once you raise it up you can see that they have an access window right here. I'm going to raise it, support it, and drain the coolant. At home you can use jack and jack stands if you don't have a lift. Then, I'll raise it up in the air and take the tire off. 22 millimeter socket, and I'm going to break the lug nuts free. You'll notice that there's an engine cover. There's no arrow going to it, but I like to have as much visual and room I can. I like to put the hood prop in this lowest little square right there. It's located on the passenger side of the engine. Now, to access the timing belt and water pump, obviously, you go under the hood. If you need those parts or, any other parts for your car, click on the link below and head on over to. Today, on this 2011 Honda Pilot with a 3.5 liter we're going to do a timing belt with a water pump. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. I preferred the Fusions.ĭriver inside door handles on all of them suck, easy to replace but annoying as fuck.Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. She isn't entirely happy with the Crosstrek. Her and my dad figured the trans was starting to go at 160k and she sold it and bought a Subaru. She replaced it with an 11, with the larger 4 banger and an auto. Was great, zero issues up until 180k when it was hit in a parking lot and totaled. One was an 07 V6 with all the bells and whistles. Oh the torque arm motor mount thing is always, been through like 4 of them. My Dad just drove it from Central California to the top of Washington last month. Also had the pigtail for the speedo wear through and it started doing weird things. Tires only last 20-30k miles on cars there. It lives a hard life, 12 miles of fucked up hardly paved road every time is leaves the house. The 06 is the base of base models, 2.3 with a 5 speed.
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